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Freudenstadt 9

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Freudenstadt 9; SABA; Villingen (ID = 33230) Radio
SABA; Villingen: Freudenstadt 9 [Radio] ID = 33230 640x480
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For model Freudenstadt 9, SABA; Villingen
 
Country:  Germany
Manufacturer / Brand:  SABA; Villingen
Brand
 
Schwer & Söhne, GmbH
Year: 1958/1959 Category: Broadcast Receiver - or past WW2 Tuner
Valves / Tubes 9: EC92 EC92 ECH81 EBF89 EM84 EABC80 EC92 EL95 EL95 B250C100
Main principle Super-Heterodyne (Super in general); ZF/IF 460/6750 kHz
Tuned circuits 6 AM circuit(s)     9 FM circuit(s)
Wave bands Broadcast, Long Wave, Short Wave plus FM or UHF.
Details
Power type and voltage Alternating Current supply (AC) / 110; 125; 150; 220 Volt
Loudspeaker 3 Loudspeakers
Power out 7 W (unknown quality)
from Radiomuseum.org Model: Freudenstadt 9 - SABA; Villingen
Material Wooden case
Shape Tablemodel with Push Buttons.
Dimensions (WHD) 635 x 375 x 285 mm / 25 x 14.8 x 11.2 inch
Notes Schallkompressor, drehbare Ferritantenne
Net weight (2.2 lb = 1 kg) 14.1 kg / 31 lb 0.9 oz (31.057 lb)
Price in first year of sale 449.00 DM
Collectors' prices  
External source of data Erb
Source of data HdB d.Rdf-& Ferns-GrH 1958/59


All listed radios etc. from SABA; Villingen
Here you find 1553 models, 1413 with images and 1041 with schematics for wireless sets etc. In French: TSF for Télégraphie sans fil.




 


Forum contributions about this model
SABA; Villingen: Freudenstadt 9
Threads: 3 | Posts: 19
Hits: 2247     Replies: 2
saba: 9; Freudenstadt Taste-drücken Problem
Bob Isaac
04.Jan.11
  1

Hallo Radio-Freunde,
  Erstens, bitte entschuldigen Sie meine schreckliche Deutsch.

Zweitens kann mir jemand helfen, mit der Druckknopf-Mechanismus von diesem Radio? Als ich die TA-Taste drücken, sperrt ihn in Position und nicht ausrasten, wenn ich irgend eine andere Taste drücken. Ich kann nicht sehen, wo das Problem liegt.
Hat jemand einen Vorschlag?
Mit freundlichen Grüßen,
Bob Isaac

 

(In case my German is so bad that no one can understand what I am asking, here it is in English:)

Hello radio Friends,

 Perahpas someone can help me?  Whenever I push the TA button on this radio, it locks into place and does not disengage when whenever I push another button. I have to work it up-and-down until it will finally release.  I cannot see where the problem is.

Does anyone have a suggestion about how I should go about finding and correcting the problem?

Henning Oelkers
04.Jan.11
  2

Hi, Bob,

i start in English, as i think it's best for You...

All Buttons are Spring loaded, and except for the UKW/FM Button, all the others schould have springs of the same force.

You will need to find out the following: Is the resistance from that spring equal between TA, MW, LW?

If not, the Spring may be broken.

If Yes, do You think it is just a Question of releasing the Button? If as soon as the Button moves, it pops out like all the others, it is likely a mechanical problem with the release bar.

Last possible cause of that problem may be a sticky Contact slider. The only chance to find out is, to get access to that mechanism.

With these Saba Radios it is some time consuming work, but fairly easy to do. Taking pictures while disassembling is always a good idea.

This is what You need to do: Remove the Chassis from the Cabinet. MAybe there is a connector for the speaker, otherwise unsolder the speaker wires. Then remove the knobs from the front ( tuning and volume ), then find the upper holders for the dial glass. Remove Dial Glass( take care not to break it!! )( maybe You need to remove the lower Bar as well ) , behind the Dial glass there schould be a cover, held with 2 screws. Remove this cover, and You will have acess to the Pushbutton mechanics. You will see the release bar, and the little spring on the right hand side. 

look for anything, that may cause the problem. 

Hope this helps,

 

BR Henning

Bob Isaac
05.Jan.11
  3

Hello Henning,

Thank you for the very useful reply.  You're first assumption was correct, the spring was missing from the TA lever.  Fortunately, I have a junk chassis I was able to take a spring off of and install it on this chassis.

And now the TA switch engages and disengages as it should.  However, I was still having a problem switching between UKW and the shortwave bands.  I removed the small covers from the outside of the plastic barrel (in the photo below) that shifts the dial srings from the upper red dial needle to the lower one, and I found that the metal clamp in the center of this mechanism is broken into two peices.  A friend of mine in Spain has a junker chassis from a Freudenstadt 8 that he is sending me, I think that they are the same.  At least I am really hoping they are the same!!

(correction:  my friend's part is broken as well!!   Time to scour Ebay...)

 

Thank you again for sending me the information, it was a big help.

Kind Regards,

Bob

 
Hits: 2692     Replies: 14
saba: 9; Freudenstadt - Refinishing the Cabinet
Bob Isaac
23.Dec.10
  1

Hello Friends,

 I recently purchased this radio. The chassis is in wonderful condition, but the cabinet is in sad shape.  With over 50% of the original finish missing, I decided to refinish the cabinet.  I carefully stripped off the remaining laquer, taking measurements and making notes as to the location of the three gold pinstripes.

I could not see a good way to remove either the plastic speaker covers on the sides nor the brass trim on the front side, so I left them in place and carefully worked around them.  I did make some surface scratches on the brass with the sand paper, but I'll buff them out with a polishing wheel on my Demel.  I also accidently got some stripper on the plastic which messed it up, but I'll bite the bullet and wear my fingers out buffing away the bad spots with Novus plastic polish.  Fortunately, I had wonderful results removing the grill cloth from the pressboard backing and cleaning it in the sink with some Woolite.  After it air-dried, I was able to stretch it back over the board fixing it in place with spray adhesive and staples.

I purchased some palisander colored wood stain and will top that with several coats of Tung oil. I also purchased some 2mm gold pinstripe stickers to replace the former pinstripes (which appeared to have been painted on?)

My question is this:  When should I apply the pinstripes?

1st thing?  After the toner? or after a coat or two of the Tung oil (laquer)?

 

Any other suggestions about what I have done or plan to do are also welcome.

Thank you!

Bob

James MacWilliams
23.Dec.10
  2

Bob, I think you'll find it easier to wait until after you have stained the cabinet before applying the pin stripes.  Beautiful radio.  For more information concerning Saba radios (besides this forum), try the German website: saba.magnetofon.de/index.php  , which is dedicated to Saba anything.

It is in German, but you can post English questions.  I use Google Translate to translate the site to English, since my German doesn't go much beyond being polite (and ordering beer).  They like photos, so you'll get more response if you post some.

Regards, good luck, Jim

James MacWilliams
23.Dec.10
  3

You may be interested in this: shop.antikradio-restored.de/product_info.php, where you may purchase stripes made for the Saba radios.

Regards, Jim

Bob Isaac
23.Dec.10
  4

Thank you for the suggestions Jim, I will check out that SABA site.  I was thinking they'd best go on after the stain, but I've read several accounts of radio restorations and there doesn't seem to be a consensus on applying them before the lacquer or after one or two coats.  Perhaps someone at that SABA site will know how the company did it.

And in a nice coincidence, ATR is the place where I bought my pinstripe stickers!  Ha ha!

(he also carries a nice selection of NOS old-style German resistors!)

Thanks again,

Bob

Omer Suleimanagich
27.Dec.10
  5

Why stain? 

James MacWilliams
27.Dec.10
  6

 Omer, not sure what your question is.  You seem to be suggesting an alternative, but don't state it.  Please enlighten us.  Regards, Jim

Bob Isaac
27.Dec.10
  7

Hi Omer,

 I'm trying to replicate the original finish as closely as I can (given what is readily available - and affordable - too me).  I took some high resolution pics of a portion of the remaining finish and played around with the brightness/color hues until it printed out in the exact same shade, took the paper to a local hardware store and matched it to a stain as close as I could (in this case, a dark palisander). 

It took two coats of stain to get to the proper shade, and even after only the first coat of tung oil I can tell it is going to look very close to the original finish.  The original lacquer was extremely thick, so I suspect I'll have to apply five coats (or more) of tung oil over the next week.

I plan on posting a few sequenced photos once I'm finished. (on an aside note, my wife applied the pin stripes with even more precision than the original artist!)

 

Cheers,

Bob

James MacWilliams
27.Dec.10
  8

Hi Bob,  Looking forward to seeing the finished product.  It is indeed worth taking your time to produce a nice finish. 

I'm working on a Saba Freiburg 7, which had a lot of problems.  Electrically it's all working and it is now cabinet refinish time, but it's the wrong time of year to do it.  This one had some small patches of veneer missing, which I've managed to fix, plus numerous other cabinet problems -- all now addressed.  It is, however, too cold to work in the garage and I don't want to work in the house with stains and laquers.  I can heat the garage, but with it being so cold, it's not worth it.

Bob Isaac
27.Dec.10
  9

Hi Jim,

  Perhaps you'd care to post some pictures of yours as well?

I hear you about where to do the refinishing.  I actually do it in my basement where I have one highly ventilated room with a dual fan window box fan, and another smaller room where I run a small space heater to dry the various stains and lacquers.  It works pretty well and doesn’t cost me a fortune.

If I had any patience, I would do like you and wait for spring, but I don’t.

Typical American…  :-)

 

 

Omer Suleimanagich
28.Dec.10
  10

After stripping, put 100% alcohol over the area that you would like to place lacquer.  I guarantee you that it will be very close to the original finish!                             

Putting stain on that cabinet, will give it a shade that never was used for a SABA radio!

We had this discussion many times before on North American radio forums, and the conclusion is, that radio manufacturers didn't waste time or money staining cabinets, in North America or in Europe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Omer Suleimanagich
28.Dec.10
  11

I understand that radio restorers in the UK prefer tung oil rather than lacquer, but my preference on German radios, pre catalyzed plastic finishes era, is to remove the varnish, and cover it with the highest quality lacquer, with grain filler placed before.

If you would like to even take it one step further, after the grain filler, cover the radio with one coat of shellac, then cover it with lacquer.

 

Bob Isaac
28.Dec.10
  12

Hello Omer,

 As for staining this particular radio, it was in fact, necessary to achieve the same finish (almost) as the original.  Age and/or environment may (or may not) have contributed to the overall patina, but I have no doubt that the veneer on this radio had been stained originally.  I inspected the underlying veneer where there was some chipping along the bottom edge and you could see quite clearly that the wood was several shades lighter than the surface.  If this wood had been natural, it would have been equally dark deeper into the grain.  Unfortunately for me, I can't get any alcohol over 71% here, so I use denatured alcohol.  The acetone in it removes any trace of oil, and sets up a nice surface that laps up stain and lacquer.  I’m a posing this question on the SABA forum to see what my Germans friends think about this.  I’ll let you know what they say.

Thanks,

Bob

Bob Isaac
28.Dec.10
  13

Hello again Omer,

 Like I mentioned earlier, I am using what is readily available to me (as well as affordable).  If I had my druthers, I'd use the old style (flakes) shellac, but I have never used it before and have no one close by who could teach me.  So, I go with what I know, and that is tung oil.  The end result can be quite beautiful, and will hold up to scrutiny, if done correctly.

As for the popularity of tung oil amongst British radio enthusiasts, I cannot say. I've never been to the U.K.

I'm from Texas, but live in Germany.

Bob

James MacWilliams
28.Dec.10
  14

Hi Bob & Omer,

Of the four Saba's I've restored, all have had some kind of dark finish applied at the factory with a lacquer top coat, maybe it wasn't a stain, but it was darker than the wood.  On two of the Saba's I've not refinished the cabinet beyond cleaning and waxing since the original finish was good enough.  However, on the other two, I've had no choice.  The first, a Konstanz 8, I stripped, sanded, applied a grain filler, stained, and finished with many coats of lacquer.  I'm happy with it and so is my son who got it for Christmas.  The second, the Freiburg 7, I'm working on now.  I'm no expert on refinishing -- far from it -- and am always looking for better ways to do things.

An interesting thread to follow on the Saba forum is this one:

saba.magnetofon.de/showtopic.php

Which shows what lengths one individual went to restore his Saba.  Posting your question on the Saba forum would be most useful.

BTW - I'm not British either, I'm an American who just happens to be living here.  The British forum does have folks who extoll the benefits of finishing with Danish oil due to its ease of application, and I've used it on an old Murphy A242 that was in sad shape, but I hadn't considered its use on the Sabas, which had a high gloss finish.

I'll try to post some pictures.

Regards, Jim

Omer Suleimanagich
28.Dec.10
  15

Looking back at some of the Telefunken Gavottes I restored, I did have to add stain to the lacquer spray to get the, "rainbow" finish.

If anything, ask the folks in that forum if they concur with the method I employed.

Again, I don't believe that there was a manufacturer out there, that would apply stain first , then lacquer.

Possibly, the grain filler that was used, acted as a stain.

I am just glad that you didn't throw a coat of polyurethane on that radio, like what many novices do State Side! 

 
Hits: 2118     Replies: 0
saba: 9; Freudenstadt
Sven Hoffmann
30.Apr.08
  1 Hallo liebe Radiosammler und Experten

Ich bin seit gestern stolzer Besitzer eines Freudenstadt 9.
Ein übler Brumm bei aufgedrehtem Bassregler lies sich durch tauschen von EABC80 beseitigen.
Der UKW Empfang ist einwandfrei, L/M/K eher schwach.
Meine Sorge aber ist der Netztrafo, der meiner Meinung nach zu stark aufheizt.
Das Gerät ist sonst in einem guten Zustand und ich habe große Freude daran.
Für Hinweise und Ratschläge bin ich sehr dankbar.

LG Sven Hoffmann
 
SABA; Villingen: Freudenstadt 9
End of forum contributions about this model

  
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