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990 ; Tele-Tone Radio Corp (ID = 716830) Radio 990 ; Tele-Tone Radio Corp (ID = 716833) Radio
990 ; Tele-Tone Radio Corp (ID = 716834) Radio 990 ; Tele-Tone Radio Corp (ID = 725959) Radio
990 ; Tele-Tone Radio Corp (ID = 716835) Radio 990 ; Tele-Tone Radio Corp (ID = 725961) Radio
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990 ; Tele-Tone Radio Corp (ID = 716830) Radio
Tele-Tone Radio Corp: 990 [Radio] ID = 716830 933x568
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For model 990, Tele-Tone Radio Corp., Tele-Tone Co. Inc.; New York (NY):
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Country:  United States of America (USA)
Manufacturer / Brand:  Tele-Tone Radio Corp., Tele-Tone Co. Inc.; New York (NY)
alternative name
Year: 1960 ? Category: Broadcast Receiver - or past WW2 Tuner
Valves / Tubes 5: 12BE6 12BA6 12AV6 50C5 35W4
Main principle Superheterodyne (common); ZF/IF 455 kHz
Tuned circuits 4 AM circuit(s)
Wave bands Broadcast only (MW).
Power type and voltage AC/DC-set / 117 Volt
Loudspeaker Permanent Magnet Dynamic (PDyn) Loudspeaker (moving coil) / Ø 4 inch = 10.2 cm
Power out 1 W (unknown quality)
from Model: 990 - Tele-Tone Radio Corp., Tele-
Material Modern plastics (no Bakelite or Catalin)
Shape Tablemodel, Mantel/Midget/Compact up to 14" width, but not a Portable (See power data. Sometimes with handle but for mains only).
Dimensions (WHD) 5 x 5.5 x 10 inch / 127 x 140 x 254 mm
Notes This case was also used by Firestone and Stromberg-Carlson to make an AM set. This case was also used by Teletone for the FM-only model 1000.
Net weight (2.2 lb = 1 kg) 2 lb (2 lb 0 oz) / 0.908 kg
Literature/Schematics (1), my collection

Model page created by Joe Sousa. See "Data change" for further contributors.

All listed radios etc. from Tele-Tone Radio Corp., Tele-Tone Co. Inc.; New York (NY)
Here you find 151 models, 74 with images and 94 with schematics for wireless sets etc. In French: TSF for Télégraphie sans fil.


Forum contributions about this model
Tele-Tone Radio Corp: 990
Threads: 2 | Posts: 5
Hits: 3114     Replies: 0
tele-tone: 50C5 grid bias from 12BE6
Joe Sousa

Fellow Radiophiles,

A couple of years ago, I played with the idea of eliminating the cathode bias resistor and capacitor from the 50C5 in a Toptone Topline 5M-100 AC-DC set, by taking the bias for the 50C5 grid from the local oscillator grid of the 12BE6. This worked very well, but I had never seen it done in a commercial radio.

As I was looking inside my Teletone 990, I noticed that the cathode of the 50C5 was hard grounded. I had not noticed this before because I don't have a schematic. Then I noticed that the 50C5 grid was biased with a long white wire to a 470k resistor soldered to the local oscillator grid at pin1 of the 12BE6 pentagrid converter. This resistor is visible at the upper left of this photo. There is also a small red ceramic filter capacitor at the 50C5 grid pin2 to keep the LO signal out of the 50C5. Also note that wiring the 470k at the 12BE6 keeps parasitic capacitance to the oscillation grid pin1 to a minimum.

One concern with this efficient method of 50C5 grid bias, is that the voltage stay reasonably constant as the LO frequency is varied when the radio is tuned from one end of the dial to the other. This set did pretty well in this respect. The DC bias voltage provided by the 12BE6 grid varied only from -7.3V to -9V, as I changed the tuning from one end of the band to the other.

I made an adapter to replace the 12BE6 pentagrid converter with a 12BA7 with twice the conversion transconductane to improve the performance of this set. The DC bias variation over the tuning range, for the 12BA7 was even less, from -8.5V to -9.5V.

Flattening the LO DC self bias over the tuning range can be done by controlling the Q of the oscillating circuit with series or paralel resistance, which affect Q differently at high vs low frequencies. The self bias is proportional to the oscillation amplitude at the grid, and it is a little less than half the p-p amplitude.

If the oscillation is too strong at the high end of the dial, then some parallel resistance is needed to lower the amplitude at the high end. If the oscillation is too strong at the low end of the band, then some series resistance with the LO tuning capacitor or tuning coil is needed.

Another way to flatten the amplitude over the tuning range is to change the value of the usual 22k grid bias resistor. Increasing the value of the 22k resistor increases oscillations more at the high end than at the low end. Reducing the 22k resistor has the opposite effect.

The amplitude of oscillation can be manipulated over the tuning range because the reactance of the L and C components varies over frequency.

For a set that is capacitance tuned, the reactance of the fixed inductor is lowest at the low end of the dial, but the reactance of the tuned capacitor is also lowest here, because the capacitance is greatest at the low end. This means that the Q of this tank circuit will be more sensitive to series resistance at the low end of the dial.

At the High end of the dial, the fixed inductor reactance has doubled as the LO frequency increased from 1MHz (455kHzIF+540kHzRF) at the low end to 2MHz (455kHzIF+1540kHzRF) at the high end. The reactance of the capacitor has dropped much more, because the capacitance was also greatly reduced at 2MHz to 1/4 of the 1MHz value. Now we have a much higher impedance tank circuit, that is much more sensitive to shunt resistance.



Hits: 10636     Replies: 3
tele-tone: Speaker Cone Repair
Joe Sousa

Fellow Radiophiles,

Sometimes it is fun to put an unreasonable amount of effort into a repair.

One such case is the repair to the paper cone of the 4" speaker in this inexpensive American AC/DC set.

This cone had a hole covering almost one third of the area that was probable the result of rodent damage.

The speaker could have been easily replaced, but it was more fun to repair it.

The repair consisted in replacing the missing paper with paper from a common coffee filter. I stiffenned and glued the coffee filter paper with clear acrylic nail polish.

I rebuilt the inner section of the cone first, with a semicircle of coffee filter paper. I cut the paper to come up to the edge of the speaker "surround".

I applied this section to the back of the existing cone with acrylic nail polish and let it dry out.

Now I had an arc shaped gap where the surround still had to be rebuilt.

Then I cut a wider arc of coffee filter paper to overlap with the first section of coffee filter paper. The diameter of this arc must be significantly wider than the final diameter of the speaker to allow for the folds in the "surround".

I drew several arcs in the coffee filter arc to mark the location for the creases, and left about 1/4" overlap with the inner coffee filter rebuilt section.

I made the creases on the arc before applying the arc to the speaker with a sharp cylindrical edge that I rolled over a bed of soft paper.

After applying the coffee filter paper arc with acrylic nail polish, I let it dry and trimmed off the excess past the edge of the speaker.

The surround was gently worked in place while it was wet with the acrylic nail polish.

The overlap flap from the curround section was tucked under the central section of the rebuilt cone that was already dry and set in place.


I chose to leave the paper in white because I was very happy with the repair, and making the paper black was not otherwise justified in this case.

While I was stiffening the coffee filter paper I applied a low frequency to the speaker and listened for rattles. I had to trim some loose ends and make sure there were no gaps in the glue.






This set arrived with a lot of rust, but a sanding head on the mini drill cleared it up.

There was very little wrong with this set: a broken power switch and a few bad capacitors. I also added a 250mA MDL slow blow fuse at the power switch as an added measure of safety. The internal ground is AC-coupled to the chassis with 0.05uF. One unusual feature in this, otherwise very modest set, is the fully enclosed metal chassis with a metal bottom cover.




The grill is wide enough to show the speaker repair.






But the speaker is out of sight in normal use.

I bought this AM set while I was looking for the FM version, a Teletone model 1000. I was oriented in my search with help from our fellow radiophiles at

Still looking for the FM version.




Stuart Matousek

Hi there, I need to repair a speaker and found your post. I have a small tear at the edge of one of the woofers in my TELEFUNKEN OPUS , about a '55 model with the 2 round 6 inch woofers . Do you think this method with cofee filter paper and acrylic nail varnish will be appropriate? it has to be quite sturdy for these speakers as with the push-pull output they get quite a workout. I was wondering why the nail vanish was chosen as an adhesive. Will it be strong enough and flexible enough ?  

Joe Sousa

Hello Stuart,

I used the acrylic varnish because that is what I had on hand and a few simple experiments seemed to produce a suitably stiffened filter paper. The 4" full range speaker reproduces mostly mid-frequencies without the need for the cone edge at the surround interface to swing very widely.

You speak of a woofer, which requires great flexibility at the cone edge in the surround area. If I understand correctly, there is no paper loss and you simply have a small tear at the surround. In this case I have seen other speaker restorers use silicone glue to repair the tear while retaining flexibility. When the tear reagion is weakened, some thin filter paper could be used to strengthen the area.

Whatever glue you select, should be first tried with paper of comparable stiffness to the cone or with the thin filter paper. You should also consider if the glue is removable with a solvent.

The particular acrylic nail polish I used proved to shrink slightly over time. In retrospect it would have been better to use a varnish that was designed for long term use on furniture that will shrink very little. 

It would be good to see your final results.



Stuart Matousek

Thanks for the reply Joe. In answer to your question there was just a small tear without paper loss but now there is paper loss.

Some years ago I did repair the small tear with a glue that appeared flexible when dry and for a time it was quite satisfactory but after a few years the glue was found to have hardened and split. I therefore had no option but to carefully cut away the jagged edges leaving a hole about 2-3 cm long and 0.5-1 cm across lengthways around the speaker perimeter. So as with your case the glue was initially OK but did not last in this condition, and of course it will be difficult to predict how a glue will dry after some time unless it has already been tried by someone and left some time. 

For the moment I have replaced the speaker as it works perfectly well like this and I dont want to risk anymore damage. Im not sure if I should attempt a further repair or just leave it.

Tele-Tone Radio Corp: 990
End of forum contributions about this model