• Year
  • 1961 ?
  • Category
  • Broadcast Receiver - or past WW2 Tuner
  • Radiomuseum.org ID
  • 196607

Click on the schematic thumbnail to request the schematic as a free document.

 Technical Specifications

  • Number of Tubes
  • 8
  • Main principle
  • Superheterodyne (common)
  • Wave bands
  • Broadcast, 2 Short Wave plus FM or UHF.
  • Details
  • Record Player (perh.Changer)
  • Power type and voltage
  • Alternating Current supply (AC) / 110 - 230 Volt
  • Loudspeaker
  • 3 Loudspeakers
  • Material
  • Wooden case
  • from Radiomuseum.org
  • Model: Sonata Hi-Fi Stereo 5183WK [US model] - Telefunken Deutschland TFK,
  • Shape
  • Console, Lowboy (legs < 50 %).
  • Dimensions (WHD)
  • 695 x 810 x 370 mm / 27.4 x 31.9 x 14.6 inch
  • Notes
  • Telefunken Sonata Hi-Fi Stereo 5183WK;
    US export version.
    Wellenbereich:
    FM: 87.6 - 108 MHz,
    SW1: 6.9 - 22.5 MHz,
    SW2: 2.25 - 6.95 MHz,
    AM-MW-BC: 515 - 1620 kHz.
    Separate AM/SW & FM tuning,
    Telefunken type 504 disc record changer,
    sound buttons: bass/solo/soft/jazz; bass & treble controls, internal balance control & terminal for ext. balance control, DIN (Deutsche Industrie Norm) terminals for phono in & tape in/out, built-in stereo amplifier only (no FM MPX stereo decoder), made in Germany.

    Remarque: 1 HP elliptique  central 24 x 18 cm - deux ronds latéraux en face avant diam 8 cm  - aimants permanents.

    Meuble bois placage teck

     

  • Author
  • Model page created by a member from A. See "Data change" for further contributors.

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 Forum

Forum contributions about this model: Telefunken: Sonata Hi-Fi Stereo 5183WK

Threads: 1 | Posts: 21

I am restoring a Telefunken 5183wk console that was in bad shape when I got it.  It was free to me on condition that I restore it and send pictures / video that they could show their Dad who is in an assisted living facility.    

The Telefunken 5183wk had been modified with a Eicor FM stereo modulator added.  It also had the power switch bypassed, ac plugs added with some kind of rear speaker volume balance.  All of this has been removed and power switch reconnected. 

 

Powered up on my dim bulb tester and I was able to play music via the PU input.  Very distorted and volume pot / balance control was not working.  So, I proceeded with replacing all the electrolyte and paper / wax caps.  Cleaned the volume pot and after several attempts with contact cleaner, oil and complete flush out with more contact cleaner and then fader lube I was able to get the frozen balance to move freely.

 

So now it is working and sounds better, but I still have some issues and could use some advice. 

  1. I am getting a 60hz hum that I can hear with volume at zero and it does get louder when I turn the volume up.  Does this indicate a short or bad pot?  I am suspect of the volume / balance pot since it was so badly frozen. Any thoughts on what I should check?  I also get slight bleed through of the radio or PU input that I can still here even with the volume at 0.

 

  1. I have checked the voltage on the tubes and have attached the marked-up schematic.  Voltages are low on all but the ECL86 that should be 80v and is reading 103v.  Does this indicate a bad tube?

 

  1. I have replaced the selenium rectifier with a N4007 bridge and added a 100ohm 10W resister. Voltage drop is about 5v and the voltage stabilizes at about 256v vs the specified 270v.  Should I go with a lower ohm resister or is this within tolerance of the rated 270v?

 

  1. The transformer is getting very hot.  I am not sure what “normal” temp should be, but it seems to plateau at about 71C.  Is this normal, or could this be a bad tube or a short?

 

  1. I am trying to understand how the internal speakers are configured.  The system has 3 speakers (two 3 inch tweeters and one 7x10 woofer).   There are 3 wires coming out of the top of the power supply / transformer block (2 white and one red), but I suspect this was not original as the wires to the speakers are red, blue, green.  There is a 25uf cap between the woofer and the 2nd tweeter.  Does one of the wires from the transformer block feed the first tweeter and somehow act as a crossover?  Then the second provide full range with the cap used to high frequencies to the tweeter?

  

Sorry I know that a lot of questions.  Any suggestions you have will be very much appreciated.  I am trying to decide if I should buy new tubes or keep troubleshooting for a short.

 

Thanks

James Holava, 28.Sep.21

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